Sunday, June 13, 2010

Burda magazine cardigan


For the first time in ages I have actually sewn something from a pattern company. The cardigan pattern is from the April 2010 issue of Burda magazine. After learning about the Burda drama, I went on a download binge on the German site, fearing that they will soon disable that option for non-German users. To clarify, that is just me being paranoid, I don't really know if they have any plans to actually do that.

Me being possibly paranoid (and trying to find new facial expressions for the camera) + a close up of the yoke made of pointenelle organic cotton jersey.

Since I sew a lot of cardigans I was curious to see how Burda would approach the construction of a classic v-neck cardigan. Instead of a straight long piece of ribbing this pattern calls for a shaped facing, but since I wanted to use ribbing I skipped their method as it doesn't really work with super stretchy rib  fabric. On the other hand, if you want the placket to be made in woven fabric I think the Burda solution is great. Another thing I skipped was stabilizing the armhole with interfacing tape. That is overkill in my opinion, since a serger on the highest feeder tension will keep the opening in check when attaching the sleeves. I also added pockets and a yoke to make the cardigan a little less basic. All in all I think it's a great basic pattern, the shape is great, fitted but not super tight. The only dislike is the sleeve ease. Burda still insists on using ease in knit sleeves, which I don't get that at all, and because of the ease there is some excess fabric at the sleeve cap, which bothers me a little bit. 

12 comments:

  1. " a serger on the highest tension will keep the opening in check when attaching the sleeves"

    I did not know this. I'm reluctant to take my machine up to its highest tensions because the threads will break. Wonder if just increasing the tension a number or two would produce similar results?

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  2. >>sdBev: Yes do try! I realize that I might have been too generic in my statement about the tension, but the on two sergers I have used the highest tension has been excellent for attaching the sleeves in stretchy knits. The shape keeps very true and no breaking threads.

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  3. >>sdBev: Ooh I hope I wasn't translating tension the wrong way, I mean the feeder tension!

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  4. I read the instructions for this and they want you to use a woven for that shaped facing, which would make sense if that is the way you want to go, but I would rather use knits too. I like your changes to this basic and it looks great on you.
    I routinely remove the excess ease in Burda knit tops since I had issues with one a few years ago. I use the fold across the cap method to take out most of the ease. It works fine. Burda doesn't put excess ease in their woven patterns, so I don't understand why they persist in adding it to their knits.

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  5. Lovely! If past behavior is the best predictor for future behavior, you're not being paranoid at all. The bias interfacing in the sleeves is probably due to the fact that Burda does not assume that every home sewer has an overlocker. I don't understand why they use set-in sleeve in casual patterns as well. Anyway, I really think your end result is lovely!

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  6. super super cute - I love your variation with yoke and pockets.

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  7. I really like this cardigan, I have marked that pattern to try but finding the right fabric is always the challenge for me. Yours is fantastic.

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  8. >>Nancy: Aha that explains the facing instruction, I only got the instructions in German, so I couldn't understand that they actually suggest you use woven :). And ditto about the ease, against my better judgment I didn't do a fold, I naively thought that they had fixed that issue.

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  9. I am so excited to see this pattern made up. I have been thinking about trying it myself. I have been searching for a RTW light pink cardigan and a light yellow cardigan, but I have just about decided I am going to have to make them.

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  10. >>lin3arossa: Good point about the interfacing and yes set in sleeves has nothing to do with knits. For my Floremark patterns I have no ease whatsoever and it works great.

    >>Mary Nana: Thank you :)

    >>Lori: Yes do try, it is a pretty quick and easy pattern if you do the modifications that I did (ribbing instead of facing and no interfacing of the sleeves.)

    >>Rachel: Cardigans are fun to sew, the only tricky part is the buttoning, stretch knits doesn't always cooperate with buttonholes. I used snaps with decorative buttons for this cardigan

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  11. Hello
    I like your version of this cardi, specially with the white knit detail. Where do you find rib knit for your garments ? Here in France, I couldn't find anything suitable.
    Thanks !

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  12. I really love your cardigan. When you used your ribbing instead of Burda's facing method, did you shape your ribbing or did you just cut a straight piece? I am wanting to use ribbing when I make this, but I want to be sure I do it correctly. Thanks.

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