Wednesday, October 21, 2009

The Jeans project - Pt 7 Side seams

This time we are gonna talk about side seams. Forget all about the usual way of sewing together the legs of a pair of pants. The proper jeans method has a rather different approach. The result will look really professional and be very sturdy, the only downside is that it's nearly impossible to fit the jeans as you sew, so make sure they fit properly before you embark on this adventure.

First sew together the two back pieces at the crotch seam. 

Then serge the seam together.

Turn the back pieces to the other side and top stitch the crotch seam to reinforce it. I used two rows.  

 Time for the outer side seams. Just sew both outer legs.

  Now serge the seams. Close the seam if you want to top stitch the outer seam (The way Wrangler is made). Or serge the pieces individually and press them to the opposing sides (Like Levi's).

Top stitch the outer seam if you use the Wrangler method. I used one row of golden thread and one row of navy.

 Your jeans should now look like this.


Next step is to sew the inner seams, from one foot opening to another in one sweep. This is explained in Wendy Mullen's book Sew U and it looks like most jeans companies use this method.

Before you sew the inner legs together, make sure that the pressed front crotch looks like this (see Part 1 zipper tutorial)

And the back crotch is like this

Just start at the left foot opening and don't stop until you have hit the right foot opening. Then serge and press as usual. 

In the last installment of this tutorial I will attach the waistband and the belt hooks.

1 comment:

  1. These posts are great, the pictures are so helpful and your comments referencing other sources of info eg. the Sew-U book are very illuminating